Summer Plans

Hey friends-

Some of y’all probably know about my efforts, with some good friends, to make it to the most amazing and rugged granite mountains in the world: the Pakistani Karakorum.

I wrote a post over on Mountain Project about these efforts, and why we’ve failed, two years in a row, to secure the needed permits and visas. Read the post, but beware that it gets a bit political.

Moving on to something more positive, I’m currently in Talkeetna Alaska! It’s my first time in Alaska, which coincidentally was the 49th state to join the Union, and also the 49th different state that I’ve visited!

I’m hanging with my good friend Graham Zimmerman, and we’re packed and ready to fly into the Revelation Mountains! We got the idea from our friend Clint Helander, who has made annual trips to this obscure range over the past several years, putting up rad ice and mixed lines on massive (mostly unclimbed) faces. 

His photos of big granite buttresses and ridges, all unclimbed, enticed us.


The Apocalypse, photo by Clint Helander.

We’ll be flying in on this little chopter:

our lil heli

It’s a long flight, nearly 200km, and so we’ve gotta carry a good amount of fuel. Meaning a limited payload for climbing gear!


It’s a good thing we’ve got all sorts of techy lightweight gear, like these hybrid Aluminum/Steel crampons and carbon fiber boots! Thanks CAMP and Scarpa!!


Will, our pilot, using Google Earth and old-fashioned paper topos to plot a route for our little bird. We need to cross the crest of the Alaska Range to get to the Revelations, so we’ve gotta find the right pass!

We’re planning to fly in today or tomorrow, as soon as the weather in the mountains looks amenable. Plan to be back out on the 29th of July, so check back here!



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