Guillamet, West Face

A Fine Warmup

A quick post from here in Chalten. My friend Cheyne and I made an initial foray up into the big gnarly Patagonian mountains a few days back, and were lucky enough to enjoy one of the greatest weather days that I’ve ever experienced here. It was warm and calm, so warm in fact that we climbed in the shade for most of the day wearing only a light fleece layers.

The goods: A new free route on the West Face of Guillamet!

Cheyne stoked to be hitchhiking out to Piedra del Fraile
Me packed up for the outing, looking at the West Face of Guillamet
Cheyne on the "Fun" approach slabs.
A shot of the line. We climbed the prominent left leaning system shown.
Cheyne leads up the perfect hand cracks that characterized the ENTIRE route! A touch of wetness and ice, but nothing too bad.
More righteous crack action. The lower 200m of this route was one continuous corner with a hand crack. We climbed the whole route free, but had to redpoint a few pitches, up to 5.11. The whole route went at 6c (5.11), 450m.
More insanely good cracks. This section was a chimney avoidance exercise, which we mostly managed to do via the cracks on the left. Cheyne would actually come down from the crack he's in now, and we then went up the next system to the right.
CUMBRE!!!! With plenty of daylight remaining, we summited and managed to find the raps quickly, returning to camp just after dark.


3 thoughts on “Guillamet, West Face

  1. Solid work guys. Climb safe down there. Do you mind sharing you rope system you were using? It looks like a full size tag line?

    1. Thanks! We took a single 60m 9.5mm lead line, and used a ~8mm half rope as a tagline. I like this setup, since I only know how to belay with a grigri…

      Also, I think having a dynamic tagline is a nice bit of redundancy, especially in an area with such abrasive rock. In the event of a core shot, or the lead line getting stuck on rap, we’d be able to lead on the tag line, or fold it over and lead 30m pitches.

      I’m working on more technique pages, I should do one about rope systems.

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